Monday, January 5, 2015

Going out with a bang!

Today was our last day in Bangkok.  In case we don't make it back to this city again, we did our best to revisit some of our favorite things one last time...
  • Soymilk cappuccinos from a frequently visited street-side coffee stand (we provide our own soymilk).
  • Fresh fruit du jour from the market on On Nut Rd (today was durian, pineapple, and bananas).
  • Omelettes with hot sauce on rice from the Tesco across the street (the egg lady seems to have disappeared).
  • A trip up Sukhumvit on the local bus (open-air bus in one direction and A/C bus in the other direction).
  • One last swim workout in the 25 meter pool at Benjasiri Park.
  • Freshly-squeezed pomegranate juice from a street vendor just south of the park.
  • Strolled down Sukhumvit Road.
  • One hour-long massage each (Todd had an herbal massage, and I had a traditional Thai massage - both of which were awesome).
  • A smorgasbord of street vendorThai food for dinner:  crab cake, pad thai, fried mix vegetable salad with shrimp, mystery meat summer roll, etc.
  • Our last bottles of Thai beer (we splurged on Leo today, but typically we've been consuming Chang).

Friday, January 2, 2015

Playing With Pachyderms

We have no words...












































Thanks so much Jim and Gayle!!!  We had a great day at the Elephant Nature Park!

Tuesday, December 30, 2014

Life according to Panom...

When Panom was young, the government only paid for kids to go to primary school.  Any further education was at a cost to the family.  Since his parents were farmers, they could not afford to pay for him to continue school.  So, Panom became a monk at age 14, like many other boys his age.  He studied under a very famous monk who brought him from his home town of Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai.  (His temple in Chiang Mai was the one that we visited.)  While living in Chiang Mai, the government decided that they needed land in the temple's area for military use.  They began forcing the local people to give up their land and move.  According to Panom, he led the people to fight back against the government, a fight that the people would later win.  Many years later, after Panom had retired from being a monk and was getting married, the people in the area presented Panom and his new wife with a plot of land as a thank you for helping them fight for their land.

Nowadays, there are significantly fewer monks than their used to be.  Panom attributes this to the fact that the government now pays for and requires all children to attend not just primary, but secondary school as well.  After secondary school, many kids then continue their education with University.  Today, he thinks that the number of monks in Thailand has been cut in half.

Why become a monk?  Panom explains that the best way to think of it, is that people are like green mangoes.  The only way to mature and become sweet and yellow is to become a monk.  Becoming a monk is not required by Thai law.  However, it is Buddhist rules that say a man must become a monk even if for only a few weeks.

Monks are not necessarily vegetarian.  They eat whatever is donated to them by the people each day.  Early each morning, the monks leave their temples and walk the street collecting food from the people.  This food is for breakfast and lunch - there's no consumption of food after noon.

Buddhists have a three month period (lent) where they "should" give up meat, alcohol, and the killing of any things - even mosquitoes.  (Todd was kinda on board with Buddhism until the mosquito thing.)

The King of Thailand visited the Chiang Mai temple where Panom lived while he was there because his teacher was very famous.  As a gift to the temple/teacher, the King gave them a buddha statue made entirely out of gold. (The last photo in our previous posting shows the golden buddha housed in the back.)

There are many many teak trees growing wild throughout Chiang Mai.  Panom said that at one point teak trees were not protected and everyone was cutting them down.  Now, the government protects the trees and it is illegal to cut down wild teak trees.  It is, however, ok to grow teak trees on your own land and cut them down.  But, in oder to cut down a tree on your own land, you must ask the government for permission, state how many trees and how big the trees.  That way, if someone gets caught with teak wood, they can prove that it's from their own land and avoid a penalty.  It also seems that the government is subsidizing teak tree reforestation.  They provide loans with no interest to farmers willing to devote some of their land to growing teak.

A day with Panom

Thanks to Amanda and Greg, we spent yesterday touring around the outer villages of Chiang Mai with a Thai tour guide named Panom.  We visited Bua Tong Waterfall, took a long-tailed boat out to a house boat on the Mae Ngat reservoir where we swam and had lunch, visited a large temple near the reservoir, and also visited the temple where our guide, Panom, lived as a monk for more than a decade.  While we really enjoyed each stop on our tour, what made the day so special was Panom.  We learned so much about his life as a monk, and the culture and country of Thailand.  It was truly a special experience.  Thanks so much Panom, Amanda and Greg!


































































































































































































Sunday, December 28, 2014

Our Thai indulgence continues

Yesterday was the infamous Sunday market in Chiang Mai's old city.  Although Todd is not much of a shopper, he was running low on underwear.  That paired with the prospect of good food and a massage was enough to entice him to make the 20 minute motorbike journey.  The market did not disappoint!  We shopped our hearts out (well, Todd did, and I shopped as long as Todd could tolerate it), filled our bellies (pad thai, papaya salad, passion fruit banana smoothies, avocado passion fruit and beet passion fruit juices, lots of delicious fried unknowns, and a Nutella banana crepe) and finished the night off with an hour foot massage and a 15 minute fish bath!  Our Thai indulgence continues!








































































































































Saturday, December 27, 2014

Oh My, Chiang Mai!

We are all settled into Chiang Mai and are really looking forward to this part of our trip.  We've found a hotel a bit out of the city (we like quiet sleeping conditions), we rented a motorbike for the week, bought our bus tickets back to Bangkok (apparently we were lucky to get them as everything is booked due to New Years), found a 50meter outdoor pool for $2 per person per entry, gotten an hour long Thai massage each, and filled our bellies with pad thai, curry, etc.  Things are looking up!























































Friday, December 26, 2014

Our Vietnam good times

The A O Show at the Vietnam Opera House:



The Mekong Delta:



And the food:



Thursday, December 25, 2014

Friends like these...

Before we begin ranting, we'd like to start on a high note and say that we had some great times in Vietnam.  We spent an evening at the Saigon Opera House drinking tea and watching a show called the A O Show (a bit similar to cirque de solei) which was quite fun.  We took a boat tour of the Mekong in a town called Can Tho where we had bun (noodle soup with pork) in the floating market, visited a noodle making factory and a fruit orchard (where we sampled all of the fruits).  We also ate lots of good food: pho (noodle soup with beef), Vietnamese coffee, and bahn mi (a sandwich with lots of mystery meats, some veg, and liver pate).  We also met a couple of friendly people - our Mekong tour guide, Kim, was awesome.  We'll post photos in a separate posting.

Now the lows...we've said it before and we are firmly set on the idea that people are what makes or breaks a place.  This was proven time and time again in Vietnam.  The majority of the people that we encountered were not only unfriendly, but it seemed that they would do anything (I.e. lie, cheat or steal) to make a few bucks and/or get a few cracks in at the haoles.  Some examples:

1)  Just like in Europe and other places, upon entering an elevator, one must push the close door button.  So, when investigating a new hotel for a possible crash-pad, I (Kristina) entered the lift, and then the hotel worker entered.  As Todd began walking in, the worker pushed the close button and shut the doors on him.  Then, she laughed.

2)  During the bus ride to the Mekong Delta, Todd waited for a calm stretch in road before standing up to grab his headphones from his bag in the upper bag compartment.  The driver looked back at him and slammed the brakes for no reason that either of us could tell.  (This could have been a coincidence, but we doubt it.)

3)  I (Kristina) found a shop with some custom blazers and skirts for work.  I was told multiple times that everything was 50% off.  Not only was I told of the percentage discount, the shop worker also calculated the new price to show me how good the discount was.  So, I tried some items on, found a skirt and blazer that I liked and went to check out.  She rung me up and gave me the price which was nearly the full price of my items.  When I pointed this out to her, she said that the discount was actually only 10% and she apologized saying that her english was bad.  I'd love to have believed that, but it's all crap.  It was not a language problem.  It was a lie to get me to pay more.

4)  We booked a bus ticket back to Saigon from the Mekong Delta so as to avoid too much hassle on our return.  The bus ticket price included a shuttle ride from our hotel to the bus station.  The receptionist in our hotel told us to wait inside and "no worries" that the shuttle would come for us.  After waiting almost 20 minutes, we decided to forgo the waiting and catch a cab.  All hell broke loose once we arrived at the bus station.  Not only did we barely make our bus, but some men outside of the bus station grabbed my arm and proceeded to take me away from the entrance saying that the place to book tickets was "over her".  They were in fact lying. We needed to go into the bus office just like we though.   Todd had had enough.  I waited on the bus (holding our seats) while he yelled at the vultures outside who grabbed me and the woman inside the bus station for not sending a shuttle to pick us up. 

5)  While on the bus back to Saigon, a man proceeded to push Todd's leg out of the way to grab something.  Since Todd is a nice person, we had to assume that the man had dropped something and was trying to grab it, so he moved his leg out of the man's way.  The man then reached into the seat pocket grabbing Todd's water bottle.  The man had messed with the wrong guy.  Todd quickly realized what was happening and Karate-chopped his arm.  The man jumped back and quickly left the bus.  Hopefully, he's left with more than just a bruise.

It may seem that we are being silly, or that these kinds of things can happen everywhere, but we were only in Saigon for 3.5 days.  These kinds of things were constant.  Every time we had a nice couple of hours and we began to think that maybe we had it all wrong... we would get lied to again.

It is possible that our negative perceptions are not true of all Vietnamese people.  And, a person of a different ethnicity could quite possibly have a very different experience.  However, this was ours. 

With our visit to the War Remnants Museum  and all of the anti-American rhetoric fresh in our heads, We felt that the people were trying to get us back for all of the atrocities that our country committed during the Vietnam war.  And, to be fair, our country did some horrible things.  Americans basically crop-dusted their land and people with a deadly chemically (Agent Orange).  The "intention" was to kill the plants and foliage so that the Viet Cong would be more exposed.  It was "not known" that Agent Orange would affect people in such a negative way.  The fact that it was not foreseen that a chemical of this magnitude could (and did) harm millions of people is disgusting and disingenuous.  In fact, the harm still continues.  People are still affected by the chemical and quite possibly may be for a long time.  

So, in some respects, we can understand some residual hostility and anger towards Americans.  However, it still sucks to be deceived and cheated.  And, since we believe that the people make the place, we've come to the conclusion that Vietnam is not a place for us.

Wednesday, December 24, 2014

Up, down and OUTTA HERE!

Vietnam has been a crazy slew of emotions.  There have been incredible highs and very frustrating lows.  

I just had to stop writing for a minute to make sure that Todd didn't get in a fist-a-cuffs or get arrested for simultaneously hammering the receptionist at the bus company for their shuttle never showing up and verbally (and quite possibly physically) abusing some vultures for attempting to grab me and take me somewhere for reasons we can only assume include prying money from my wallet.  We have reached our tolerance limit and are happily leaving this country.  P.s.  Todd did not get arrested, nor did he punch anyone... yet.


Later the same day...  
After a 3.5 hour bus ride (during which a man tried to steal Todd's water bottle from between his legs and Todd nearly broke his arm) and a 45 minute taxi ride in ridiculous traffic, we are now sitting at our gate at the airport waiting patiently for our flight back to Bangkok.  We were actually supposed to stay in Vietnam for four more days, but we have had enough.  We paid the change fee and fare difference and are outta here, not a moment too soon.  We'll explain more later.

Friday, December 19, 2014

Whirled Peas

Being that we are both pro-world peace, and being that the world peace lighting ceremony happened to be happening in the park where our pool is located, we joined in the festivities after our swim workout.





































We might be even bigger supporters of world peace after our zenning in the park :)